Monday, April 19, 2010


What is the right board? What is the perfect amount of rocker? What is the appropriate approach? How many waves do you get without being a wave hog? When is my next surf trip? How long will I go? I am in the ponder phase of my surfing life. The ocean is ever changing, the equipment is always developing & my ideas and views on surfing are re-born every year. Then I realize that nothing can be known in an ever changing world. We all have a different attachment to the ocean & surfing anyway. By the time I think I have my own answers, my question has changed. Funny thing is . . . I do my best surfing when I am not struggling for answers but rather accepting that, for me, there are none. My surfing has to be a response everyday to the unique way I feel in the moment. The past years have deeply challenged me to be o.k. with my approach to wave riding. NEVER SURRENDER YOUR OWN TRUTH. Nobody knows why we do the things we do, but surely we must all have reasons. I have learned that lesson the hard way. Let's all paddle out today and be completely FREE in the big blue heaven, that is the only way we will ever be truly satisfied in our souls.

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